More detailed route map

I'll fly into Bilbao (on the northeast coast), take a train to León (at the intersection of where the yellow route comes down vertically to meet the blue, which is the Camino Frances), a bus to Astorga, then start walking. I've decided to take on 260 rather than 200 km because I don't want to miss the mountain pass just west of Astorga. Even the bare-bones Confraternity of St. James’ Pilgrim Guide to the Camino Frances, which basically sticks to mileage and a listing of pilgrim hostals, cautions, "it is a long and hard 50km across the mountains of León from Astorga to Ponferrada. The route goes up over 1500 meters [almost 5000 feet] and as in all mountains the weather can be uncertain at any time." There's no place to stay or buy food on the highest section; the guide advises you to carry food and get an early start. But it also says that "the stretch between Astorga and Ponferrada is one of the most interesting and beautiful of the whole camino."

This sounds like the closest thing to backpacking you probably get on the Camino, and I'm really looking forward to it.

Along that stretch is another famous Camino landmark, the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross). Traditionally each pilgrim adds a stone, brought from home, to the pile of rocks below the cross, which has grown predictably enormous over the centuries.